Xu Dongfang, inheritor of “post-80s” handwork plate buckles: Small plate buckles transfer Chinese culture

2022-08-01 0 By

“There is a story behind each buckle.”Recently, in fuzhou zhuzifang, Fujian province, a thread is jumping on the finger tip of Xu Dongfang, the inheritor of traditional Cheongsam plate buckling handicraft skills, and crochet needles are dancing in his hands…Slowly, the line in the hand, cloth unreal becomes delicate dish buckle.”You fill it first, you look for the back” “curved places are harder, places like this are easier”…Inside the ancient house, a few handcraft lovers followed Xu Dongfang to learn to make plate buckle, occasionally came the inquiry, Xu Dongfang answered one by one.Plate buckle, also known as plate button, is named after its handmade plate system. It is a unique craft jewelry in China. After the evolution of all dynasties, it began to take shape in the early Qing Dynasty.In the traditional Chinese cheongsam and mandarin jacket, the plate button is used to fix the front of the garment. It not only has the function of connecting the front of the garment with the button, but also is the finishing touch of the garment decoration.In the long years, as an important craft of needlework, pan buckle was widely spread among the people.However, with the rapid development of industrial civilization and the change of people’s life style and pace, pankou, like many other traditional skills, has been gradually neglected and forgotten by people. For the current young people, the word pankou is both new and strange.”When I was young, I was exposed to the production of buckles.”As a “post-80” young man, Xu Dongfang has a special liking to dish buckle production.She said her grandmother could embroider and make clothes, including clasp.When she was about 10 years old, she began to learn to tie ropes, making Chinese knots, hand ropes and other hanging ornaments.In 2009, xu Dongfang, who graduated from the Department of Clothing of Minjiang University and majored in textile design, also worked in graphic design, but she was more interested in making plate buttons.In 2012, she began to visit the old masters of hand-made plate buckles in Fuzhou to consult and learn from them.In 2014, she opened a small studio in Jinshan district, Fuzhou.Knowing that his knowledge reserve was insufficient and he needed to “recharge”, Xu dongfang then went to Jiangsu, Shanghai, Shenzhen and other places to learn from the old masters, hard disk buckle and edge sewing skills.”Every teacher has his own unique approach, and sometimes it’s rewarding to look at a teacher’s work.”Therefore, Xu Dongfang is more determined to go out for a walk.In xu Dongfang’s studio, she makes pipa buckles, butterfly buckles, pan Xiang buckles, bee buckles (leaf buckles), Daisy buckles, ruyi buckles, traditional pattern buckles and other works, attracting many handcraft lovers, citizens and tourists to stop and watch.”Some design according to the needs of customers, some look at the qipao style and imagine…There is a story behind each buckle.”Xu Dongfang says, the production process of dish buckle is relatively complex, with more than 20 working procedures, especially need patience, sink to hold gas.In April 2020, the hand-made technique of traditional cheongsam plate buckle was selected into the fifth batch of intangible cultural Heritage project list of Gulou District.”The clasp can be used not only as an ornament, but also as a decorative painting.”As an inheritor, Xu Dongfang has been trying to integrate traditional skills with panbuckle. At present, she has integrated embroidery, micro-hook, lacquer and other traditional skills into panbuckle production.Xu Dongfang told reporters, at present, Fuzhou specializing in plate buckle handmade artisan very few.Now, she teaches craft classes to help craft enthusiasts make clasp.”I hope the traditional Chinese art will enter more people’s lives and more people will master the craft of pankou.”(Ye Qiuyun)